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Thought provoking museums
 National Historical Museum
(Музей Национальной Истории)
At the northern end of Bishkek's central square, this enormous example of socialist realist architecture was once the Lenin Museum, entirely devoted to the man himself. After independence, two of its three floors were cleared to make way for exhibits that reflected Kyrgyzstan's new status as an independent state. Luckily for visitors one floor has been preserved, along with a huge centrepiece statue of Lenin leading the revolutionary masses. The text above the statue, which confronts visitors as they walk to the top of the ground floor staircase, reads 'Proletariat of the World Unite!' Those unfamiliar with the cult of personality that surrounded Lenin in Soviet times will be fascinated and taken aback by this lavish exhibition.
It is interesting to compare the Lenin display with the halls devoted to Aksar Akaev (Kyrgzystan's president) and his political activities. Exhibits include gifts presented by various heads of state to Akaev and quotes from his speeches.
The museum also showcases pre-Soviet Kyrgyz history and has a section covering traditional embroidery, felt-making and weaving with a large display yurt. A large area is devoted to the history of the Silk Route presenting, among other things, examples of finely fashioned bead and metal jewellery traded in the area. Archaeological finds from Kyrgyz prehistory include Scythian pottery and the mummified body of a mysterious princess.
The museum has an excellent, reasonably priced souvenir shop, selling Soviet stamps, mini-yurts, books, rugs and jewellery. Twice a year, a women's artisan group from Naryn sets up shop here to sell good quality, hand made traditional Kyrgyz felt products.
Apart from the Akaev halls, most exhibits are labeled in Russian and Kyrgyz only, so a guide is recommended. Turkestan city tours normally include a visit to the National Historical Museum.
Open Tues-Sun, 10am-1pm, 1.30pm-6pm Entrance 55 som (just over $1) for foreigners
Museum of Fine Arts (Музей Изобразительных Искусств)
One of Bishkek's best exhibitions, the Museum of Fine Arts showcases traditional Kyrgyz folk and applied arts along with a good selection of modern Russian and Soviet works. It is worth putting aside a couple of hours to explore the galleries properly, preferably with a guide (most exhibits are labeled in Russian and Kyrgyz only).
A particular attraction is the high, airy hall devoted to traditional Kyrgyz embroidery and felt work. Here, the walls are laden with exquisite, unique tushkiis, bashtiyks, shyrdaks and alakiis, painstakingly handmade by skilled local women. A large yurt is decorated with intricate woven tassels, ribbons and colourful wall hangings.
Soviet-era paintings of industrial and agricultural scenes demonstrate the strictures under which artists were encouraged to work, sometimes at the expense of quality. Many sculptures of the same period also reflect the doctrine of socialist realism.
On the ground floor is an exhibition of 19th and 20th century portraits, including a selection of works painted in India. To the left of the entrance hall is a small sculpture hall, with replicas of classical, Egyptian and Greek statues.
Other paintings include works by Kyrgyz artists, providing a valuable insight into nomadic life and local culture. Many studies are realized, slightly incongruously, using European techniques. Reconciliation of the Kyrgyz and the European creates an interesting conflict of style and imagery. This conflict is also reflected in other media.
For those interested in propaganda art, a small area on the top floor exhibits some wonderful late Soviet posters. Subjects include space travel, international friendship, war recruitment and education. This exhibition is rotated regularly. In the same hall are displayed a collection of breathtaking Kyrgyz linocut prints presenting scenes from the Manas epic, images of everyday life and portrait studies.
Open Tues-Sun, 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-4pm. Last admissions half an hour before closing.
Entrance 100 som (a little more than $2) for foreigners.
Mikhail Frunze Museum (Mузeй M. B. Фpунзe)
An interesting Soviet museum dedicated to the life and career of Mikhail Frunze, a Red Army general who successfully kept the Bishkek area under Bolshevik control after the 1917 revolution. Frunze is credited with putting down local rebels (the bashmachiis) during the unstable months that followed the revolution. At the time, Bolshevik control over Central Asia was weak and Frunze was subsequently revered as a Soviet hero. In 1926, one year after his death, Pishpek was renamed in Frunze's honour (becoming Bishkek in 1991).
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Born in 1885, Frunze was an ethnic Moldavian. His childhood home has been preserved in a large hall on the ground floor of the museum. Bradley Mayhew poses the question 'Is this thatched cottage really where the little Frunze played with his toy soldiers, or just the Soviet way with history?' Visitors must decide for themselves. But there can be no doubt that 'In any case, the meticulous two story museum engulfing it - showcasing Frunze as a military and family man, plus the requisite posters, weapons flags and statues - has itself become a piece of history' 'Central Asia', Lonely Planet, 2000.
The museum also contains a small section covering Bishkek's history and achievements. Exhibits are in Russian only, but the friendly museum staff can arrange a guide. Turkestan city tours normally include a visit to the Frunze Museum.
Open Tues-Fri, 9am-5pm, Sat and Sun, 9am-4pm. Entrance 55 som
Aaly Tokombaev House Museum (Мемориальный Дом-Музей А. Токомбаева)
Born in 1904, Aaly Tokmbaev was one of the founding fathers of Kyrgyz literature. An akin (bard), poet, novelist and composer he also devoted much of his career to translating works of Russian and other European literature into Kyrgyz for the first time. He is credited with bringing the Kyrgyz epic, Manas, to international acclaim and with writing it down (until this century
Manas was a purely oral tradition). With others, Tokombaev worked to standardize a Kyrgyz alphabet. Kyrgyz did not have a written language until the 19th century and was first written using Arabic and Roman script, before scholars settled on a modified Cyrillic alphabet. Tokombaev wrote fluently in all three scripts, examples of his work are displayed in the museum. His life was eventful, involving exodus to China as a boy in 1916 and two spells of imprisonment -periods covered in detail by exhibits.
Aaly Tokmbaev died in 1988, having never recovered from the death of his beloved wife. Tokombaev's family converted his house into a museum in 1995 with the support of the Kyrgyz president, Aksar Akaev. Some family members still live there and work as museum staff.
Open Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm; Sat 9am-2pm; Sun closed. Entrance approximately $1 for foreigners
Zoological Museum (Зоологический Музей)
Just across from the State Historical Museum, this small exhibition displays stuffed specimens of native Kyrgyz birds, mammals, reptiles and insects. The Zoological Museum is suffering from lack of funds and has a slightly musty ambience, but a quick visit is informative and rewarding. Those with too little time to visit the Kyrgyz outback and discover its wildlife for themselves will find the displays particularly interesting. Exhibits are labeled in Russian only.
Open Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Entrance 14 som
Geological Museum and Mineralogical Museum (Геологический / Минералогический Музей)
These two separate museums cater for reasonably specialist tastes, but visitors with plenty of time to spare in Bishkek will find them worth exploring.
The Geological Museum is a small, idiosyncratic establishment located deep in the bowels of the State Geology Institute. Visitors must first telephone from reception to ask the curator to unlock the exhibition. One room displays a vast variety of rocks extracted all over Kyrgyzstan whilst adjoining rooms cover geology and mining in the ex Soviet Union. The Geological Museum boasts some enormous, very impressive rock crystals. The friendly, enthusiastic curator is able to give guided tours in Russian or Kyrgyz. Exhibits are labeled in Russian only.
Open Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm, 1-5pm. Entrance free
The small Mineralogical Museum demonstrates Kyrgyzstan's natural wealth with a comprehensive collection of rocks and minerals. Many crystals are breathtakingly beautiful. The museum's friendly staff is able to arrange guided tours in Russian. Exhibits are labeled in Russian only.
Open Mon-Fri, 9am-3.30pm. Entrance free
Museum of Graphic Arts /Tinibek Sadykov/ (Музей Академии Художеств /Т. Садыков/)
Located at the Academy of Artists, this airy museum showcases the sculpture of Tinibek Sadykov. Famous for his public sculptures, Sadykov's larger works can be seen on the streets of Bishkek (outside the Philharmonic, the Martyrs to the Revolution memorial and in Victory Square).
Open Mon-Fri, 9am-12pm, 1-4pm Entrance free
Why "Bishkek"? | Getting to Bishkek and Moving On | Bishkek's History | Pictures of Bishkek | 
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